Ugandan fashion is having its moment: designers who cut their teeth in downtown stalls are showing collections on international runways, with Kitenge and barkcloth as their signature.

The aesthetic is confident rather than costume — contemporary silhouettes built on local fabric, worn as easily in London as in Kampala.

Behind the glamour, an industry is forming: textile suppliers, pattern-makers, models and photographers finding steady work around a growing calendar of shows.

Designers say the real prize is the home market — a middle class increasingly choosing local labels over imports.

“Designers mixing Kitenge with contemporary cuts are landing international showcases — and building an industry at home.”

The runway, it turns out, was never somewhere else. It was waiting to be built here.